Ask a local where the Christmas market is and you will get a question back: which one? Each square has its own character. One is the old original and one has the tree. Another sells mostly food, and farmers run another. They sit so close together that the only real choice is where to start.
01Place Broglie, the Christkindelsmärik
- Since 1570
- The largest
- Crafts and food
- By the Opera
This long square in front of the city hall is the market that gave the season its name, the Christkindelsmärik, the market of the Christ Child. It is the biggest of the squares, a double row of chalets selling ornaments and crafts, with something warm to eat every few steps. After work, locals crowd around the hot red wine at Chez Mathilde.
Go here firstMireille Oster's gingerbread stall, for pain d'épices to carry home. Then walk the whole row once before you buy, since some stalls sell the same mass-made ornaments you could find anywhere.
Daily from about 11:30 am to 9 pm; from 2 pm on the opening Friday; 24 December until about 6 pm
02Place Kléber and the Great Christmas Tree
- Tree about 30 m
- Light shows hourly
- Village du Partage
- Tram hub next door
The biggest square in town holds the Grand Sapin, a fir of about 100 feet (30 m) that is lit at an opening ceremony the evening before the markets start. Around its base, the chalets of the Village du Partage belong to local charities. The soup and the mulled wine sold here help someone else.
Time it rightFrom 4 pm to 9 pm the tree plays a light show set to music every hour, on the hour, then twice more without music at 10 and 11 pm. Arrive five minutes early and stand back from the trunk to see the whole thing.
Chalets about 11:30 am to 9 pm; tree shows every hour from 4 pm to 11 pm
03Place de la Cathédrale and Place du Château
- Around the cathedral
- Nativity scene inside
- Decoration chalet
Chalets run right up to the pink sandstone of the cathedral and round the corner onto Place du Château. These are the busiest lanes of the season, partly because everyone wants the photo of the facade above the roofs of the huts. Käthe Wohlfahrt's big decoration chalet stands on the Château side.
Go insideEntry to the cathedral is free, a nativity scene goes up for Christmas, and it is warmer than the square. The astronomical clock sets its figures moving at 12:30 pm, so a late morning visit fits well before the lanes fill.
Daily from about 11:30 am to 9 pm; the cathedral keeps its own hours and can close for services
Strasbourg does not ask you to pick a market. Start in Petite France and finish under the tree. The island does the rest.
04Palais Rohan terrace and Place du Marché-aux-Poissons
- Mostly food
- By the river
- White vin chaud
Behind the cathedral, the terrace of the Palais Rohan and the little square beside it make up the market the city calls the Délices, the treats. It is the one to visit hungry. The river runs right below, and the quays are lit after dark.
Go here firstA white mulled wine made with Alsace wine, from La Tribu des Gourmets. Most visitors only know the red, and the white is the local specialty.
Daily from about 11:30 am to 9 pm
05Place du Temple-Neuf and the Carré d'Or
- Gourmet and craft
- Decorated facades
- Gluten-free bredele
Between the cathedral and Place Kléber, the shops of the Carré d'Or compete over who decorates best. Rue des Hallebardes and the lanes around it hang chandeliers and garlands over the street, and the facades carry teddy bears and gifts beside giant baubles. The small market on Place du Temple-Neuf leans toward gourmet food and good crafts.
Look upThe decorations above the shop windows are the show here. Walk it slowly and keep your eyes above the crowd. Gluten-free bredele are sold at a bakery stall on the square.
Daily from about 11:30 am to 9 pm; the shops keep their own hours
06Petite France: Benjamin-Zix and Louise-Weiss
- Farm producers
- Advent village
- Children's market
- Glass baubles
At the west tip of the island, among the half-timbered houses of the old tanners' and millers' quarter, two groups of chalets split the work. Place Benjamin-Zix sells crafts, including hand-blown glass baubles from Meisenthal. On Places Louise-Weiss and Suzanne-Lacore, the farmers of the Irréductibles Petits Producteurs Alsaciens sell beer and cheese alongside honey and jams, next to an Advent village and a market for children.
Go here firstThe producers' chalets, for food gifts that were made nearby. The bredele from the Moulin de Hurtigheim stall come well recommended.
Daily from about 11:30 am to 9 pm; in some years the Advent village carries on after Christmas
07Place Saint-Étienne and the smaller squares
- Quieter
- White vin chaud
- Marché OFF
When the main squares slow to a shuffle, the small ones keep moving. Place Saint-Étienne, at the east end of the island, has a handful of chalets and a second stand of La Tribu des Gourmets' white mulled wine. Place Saint-Thomas has its own little market, and Place Grimmeisen hosts the Marché OFF. It is a social and solidarity market aimed more at locals than at visitors.
Best as a breatherCome here when Place Broglie gets too full. A night walk with Bretzel&Fun also meets on Place Saint-Étienne, for those who want the side lanes explained.
Broadly the same hours as the main squares; smaller sites can vary
1570First Christkindelsmärik on record
30 mThe Great Tree, about
7Squares worth the walk
4 pmFirst tree show of the evening
Hours follow the pattern of recent seasons; the city publishes its final program shortly before opening, so check it before you travel. Every date and opening hour in one place.